Wednesday 12th July
Got my first pictures of baby Andrew this morning – from Rebecca, Rachael and Thomas! Couldn’t download them, but the Yahoo thumbnails were big enough to see him. Looks like his Dad!
We are not due at Selibi Phikwe until 2.00PM, so left F’town at 11.00AM, again with Jan, in his Toyota Venture mini bus. Passed through the foot-and-mouth dip on the A1, then another on the A15 turn-off to Phikwe. They are erecting a huge length of game fencing along this road to contain the outbreak. They have to do it to protect their beef exports to the EU. They have a substantial quota, agreed when they became independent in 1966, which they cannot usually meet, but want to keep nevertheless. We got stopped for speeding. There are very frequent radar traps, Jan missed the speed limit sign - 94kph in a 80kph zone. Fine: P25 + P5 for every k above the limit, so P95 total. No penalty point system here. They can’t use cameras because they don’t have a proper vehicle registration system nor a postal address /delivery system that could reliably notify drivers.
As you near Selibi Phikwe you can see a few tall chimney stacks, belching smoke from the copper and nickel smelting that goes on there. The town is often covered in a very unhealthy sulphur smog. We stoppped for a sandwich is a pizza place on the main street. We were given a menu, and listed under the drinks section was a ‘blow job’ for P12. I had a coke.
Business done at the college, journey very worthwhile, we leave late to drive to Palapye – about 80K. We have to drive the last half hour in the dark - not to be recommended, although on the stretch of road we were on there was good visibility and road markings. The trouble was other motorists and animals. We travelled behind a truck without rear lights, and saw other cars with just one front/rear light. Few other drivers dipped their headlights to oncoming traffic. We saw the stray animal patrols, their job to try to do something about free grazing goats and donkeys by the roadside.
Safely at Palapye, no room at the Inn! Well, not the one where we wanted to stay. But, the very accommodating owner/manager of the Desert Sands Hotel, drove us round to to a couple of ‘lodges’ and we found a room for the night. Lodges are B&Bs without the second B - room only guesthouses. The first one we saw was very nice, but full, the second one, where we stayed, at least had a clean bed, but you woudn’t want to stay there a second night. But at P150 a room, its cheap. I took this photo of the notice in the room. Jan and I had a good laugh – leaving our used toilet paper for the next guest to enjoy as much as we had! It was a very cold night.
Thursday 13th July
Visited the college at Palapye in the morning, followed by visits to two ‘brigades’. Their catch phrase is ‘education through production’. They teach various trades, but have to earn some of their funding by doing real work for which they get paid by anyone in the community who will hire them. To get to the second Brigade at Shashe, we had to travel a kilometre or so along a sandy/rough road. We crossed a bridge over the river Shashe, and on a small knoll, above the river bank, was a beautifully situated house. Derelict! I said to Jan, I would buy it, knock it down and rebuild. Dream on.
Got a text from Klavs, the money has arrived! Will try to get the car tomorrow.
Home again, and everything very tidy. Avia puts everything away, I can’t find anything! BTC have been and my landline is installed. My number is 2414726. I’ll try to get a dial-up ISP tommorrow, before the long weekend holiday. It’s Prseidents day on Monday, and a bank holiday again on Tuseday next weeek.
Its been a tiring day, so I’ll get an early night, but not before being entertained by Norah Jones and Otis Redding. I remember seeing Otis Redding at the California Ballroom in Dunstable, probably 1967 – if you are watching Bob, do you remember?
Friday 14th July
Out early to visit 2 brigades this morning. One of them, we couldn’t find at first, but eventually got there. No signage. The coordinator told us that one of the problems of brigades have, is they don’t market themselves! Signs would be a start! (we kept that to ourselves though).
After quite a bit of running around in the afternoon, and hour in the bank with Klavs waiting for a bank cheque, off to Auto Lot Sales to get the car. Got a pleasnat surprise, the Pula is down against the £, and I get the car for about £4600 – it would have been £5200 when I first arrived. Phoned an insurance broker, and a fax of the invoice for the car is enough to get insurance. This is the fastest bit of administartion I’ve experienced since coming here! I have wheels for the holiday! (Monday and Tuesday are public holidays). I am now the proud owner of a Honda CRV, automatic, permanent 4x4. Nice silver colour. It’s a 1996 model, with 64K on the clock. New tyes all round.
Monday is Presidents Day, in memory of Sereste Khama, the first President after independence and held in some reverence here. He has an interesting history; married a white woman, in the face of both colonial and tribal acrimony. However, he went on to lay the foundations of modern Botswana.
Got back home with the car, and Avia was still at the house, she was supposed to be going up to Matangwane, where her husband is, but the gates won’t open (automatic remote), and she couldn’t get out! I have the only key to the ‘pedestrian’ gate, until I can get copies. Ran her down to the bus station in the CRV. Got back, opened the gate manually, got the car in, and the gates started working again on the remote! No idea why.
Must be feeling nostalgic again, played the Beatles and John Lennon most of the night.
Saturday 15th July
“Lazin’ on a sunny afternoon…..”, well it’s the evening actually, but I’ve put The Kinks on, and that’s just how was to-day.
Got my hair cut for the first time since getting here. My barber, Thande, is a 40 year-old Zimbabwean, who is getting married again next month to a Motswana. He says he is now ready after eight years since his first wife died. He reveals that he is a little nervous though. Very genial, he is from Bulawayo. He has a house there, with a maid, and any time I would like to visit, I could stay at his house! He would even arrange a golf introduction for me with one of his friends - a member at a local club! He whispers quietly that Batswana are not a polite people – unlike the Zimbabweans!
Got petrol. P200 nearly fills the tank! Good to have the car. Drove around to parts of F’town I hadn’t been to before. Drove out to the college to see what progress there has been since my last visit a month ago. It must be all inside, there didn’t appear to be much outside!
Met up with Klavs and his son Sorien. We plan to go fishing on Monday, and they need to buy some gear. Neither of them have fished before. After that, back to Klavs house for lunch. Nice house. It was built by the Danish builder he rents it from. You can tell it wasn’t a local builder, good finish all round, and the first house I’ve seen with wooden windows. It’s a little bigger than our house, but the he pays a third more for it. Well established garden, complete with banana and lemon trees.
The days are relentlessly blue skies and warm sunshine. Sat on the veranda in the late afternoon, reading. Someone was having a barbecue – the smell made me hungry. A barbecue - in the middle of winter! I’ll have to try to get ours going when June arrives. Keep thinking about that now.
Sunday 16th July
Played in the monthly medal this morning, and if it wasn’t for a 10 at one hole, it would have been a respectable round. Still can’t putt, but my pitching around the browns is much improved. Local rules allow you to use a tee on the fairway, so, even if you are just a few feet from the brown, you can tee the ball. Only about 16 played, and I just missed out on the longest drive prize. Always next week.
Sad news, we won’t be able to fish tomorrow, you need a permit and it can only be got at the main water utilities office, which will be shut for the holidays. We could risk fishing without the permit, but my fellow golfing/fishing buddies said that they would confiscate our equipment if caught. But, we decide to go out to the dam anyway sightseeing.
Another quite afternoon on the veranda with a bottle of SA white wine. So far, the white wines are much better than the 2/3 reds I’ve tried. Watched Harry Potter and the Prisoner of A. I had bought some frozen tiger prawns and had them for my tea, just fried in garlic and olive oil. OK, but you could tell they were frozen. But at P40 for a huge plateful, I couldn’t complain.
Monday 17th July
Set out at 8.00AM for Shashe Dam, along the A1 main road to Gabs. It’s about 30K, and we travel in convoy. Klavs also has a Honda CRV. The last 3/4K is off-road, and I get to use my Honda for what it was designed for, but the best was yet to come! We got to the dam and spent some time walking along the bank, bird spotting. Saw my first African pelican. We got to see some weaver bird nests close-up (sorry, forgot my camera!). There are different varieties, and one way of telling them apart is the design of their nests. I suggested to Klavs that we try a different way home. The map I had showed a road on the western side going north. The legend on the map was ‘seek local advice before using’, but I reasoned that would be in the rainy season. We were up for it.
Back to the main road and then into Shashe village itself, until the tar road ran out and we were travelling north along a wide gravel road. No signposts anywhere, but I was navigating by the sun and we were heading north. There were several forks in the road, but mostly obvious which one we should take, others – it was just guesswork and keeping the sun on my right. I had absolutely great fun! The road was good in places and quite poor in others, with deep rutting, bumps and boulders to negotiate, and the odd herd of cattle, goats, stray donkeys and locals in their donkey carts. We had to cross several dry (sandy) river beds, negotiating down steep river banks and up the other side. We passed several ‘cattle stations’ – no electricity here. It took over an hour to get back to tar road again, but I’m so glad I’ve bought a 4x4, it’ll be great using it in self-drive game parks and for travelling across the Kalahari and Makgadikgadi Pans. I felt just a little pleased with myself.
Back in F’town, we go to ‘The Marang’ for lunch, my first time there. The Marang is the local equivalent of Balbirnie House. Traditional thatched guest lodges and main restaurant, on the banks of the Tati river. I’ll take June here, even although the food did not match Balbirnie standards.
Another late sunny afternoon on the veranada.
Got my first pictures of baby Andrew this morning – from Rebecca, Rachael and Thomas! Couldn’t download them, but the Yahoo thumbnails were big enough to see him. Looks like his Dad!
We are not due at Selibi Phikwe until 2.00PM, so left F’town at 11.00AM, again with Jan, in his Toyota Venture mini bus. Passed through the foot-and-mouth dip on the A1, then another on the A15 turn-off to Phikwe. They are erecting a huge length of game fencing along this road to contain the outbreak. They have to do it to protect their beef exports to the EU. They have a substantial quota, agreed when they became independent in 1966, which they cannot usually meet, but want to keep nevertheless. We got stopped for speeding. There are very frequent radar traps, Jan missed the speed limit sign - 94kph in a 80kph zone. Fine: P25 + P5 for every k above the limit, so P95 total. No penalty point system here. They can’t use cameras because they don’t have a proper vehicle registration system nor a postal address /delivery system that could reliably notify drivers.
As you near Selibi Phikwe you can see a few tall chimney stacks, belching smoke from the copper and nickel smelting that goes on there. The town is often covered in a very unhealthy sulphur smog. We stoppped for a sandwich is a pizza place on the main street. We were given a menu, and listed under the drinks section was a ‘blow job’ for P12. I had a coke.
Business done at the college, journey very worthwhile, we leave late to drive to Palapye – about 80K. We have to drive the last half hour in the dark - not to be recommended, although on the stretch of road we were on there was good visibility and road markings. The trouble was other motorists and animals. We travelled behind a truck without rear lights, and saw other cars with just one front/rear light. Few other drivers dipped their headlights to oncoming traffic. We saw the stray animal patrols, their job to try to do something about free grazing goats and donkeys by the roadside.
Safely at Palapye, no room at the Inn! Well, not the one where we wanted to stay. But, the very accommodating owner/manager of the Desert Sands Hotel, drove us round to to a couple of ‘lodges’ and we found a room for the night. Lodges are B&Bs without the second B - room only guesthouses. The first one we saw was very nice, but full, the second one, where we stayed, at least had a clean bed, but you woudn’t want to stay there a second night. But at P150 a room, its cheap. I took this photo of the notice in the room. Jan and I had a good laugh – leaving our used toilet paper for the next guest to enjoy as much as we had! It was a very cold night.
Thursday 13th July
Visited the college at Palapye in the morning, followed by visits to two ‘brigades’. Their catch phrase is ‘education through production’. They teach various trades, but have to earn some of their funding by doing real work for which they get paid by anyone in the community who will hire them. To get to the second Brigade at Shashe, we had to travel a kilometre or so along a sandy/rough road. We crossed a bridge over the river Shashe, and on a small knoll, above the river bank, was a beautifully situated house. Derelict! I said to Jan, I would buy it, knock it down and rebuild. Dream on.
Got a text from Klavs, the money has arrived! Will try to get the car tomorrow.
Home again, and everything very tidy. Avia puts everything away, I can’t find anything! BTC have been and my landline is installed. My number is 2414726. I’ll try to get a dial-up ISP tommorrow, before the long weekend holiday. It’s Prseidents day on Monday, and a bank holiday again on Tuseday next weeek.
Its been a tiring day, so I’ll get an early night, but not before being entertained by Norah Jones and Otis Redding. I remember seeing Otis Redding at the California Ballroom in Dunstable, probably 1967 – if you are watching Bob, do you remember?
Friday 14th July
Out early to visit 2 brigades this morning. One of them, we couldn’t find at first, but eventually got there. No signage. The coordinator told us that one of the problems of brigades have, is they don’t market themselves! Signs would be a start! (we kept that to ourselves though).
After quite a bit of running around in the afternoon, and hour in the bank with Klavs waiting for a bank cheque, off to Auto Lot Sales to get the car. Got a pleasnat surprise, the Pula is down against the £, and I get the car for about £4600 – it would have been £5200 when I first arrived. Phoned an insurance broker, and a fax of the invoice for the car is enough to get insurance. This is the fastest bit of administartion I’ve experienced since coming here! I have wheels for the holiday! (Monday and Tuesday are public holidays). I am now the proud owner of a Honda CRV, automatic, permanent 4x4. Nice silver colour. It’s a 1996 model, with 64K on the clock. New tyes all round.
Monday is Presidents Day, in memory of Sereste Khama, the first President after independence and held in some reverence here. He has an interesting history; married a white woman, in the face of both colonial and tribal acrimony. However, he went on to lay the foundations of modern Botswana.
Got back home with the car, and Avia was still at the house, she was supposed to be going up to Matangwane, where her husband is, but the gates won’t open (automatic remote), and she couldn’t get out! I have the only key to the ‘pedestrian’ gate, until I can get copies. Ran her down to the bus station in the CRV. Got back, opened the gate manually, got the car in, and the gates started working again on the remote! No idea why.
Must be feeling nostalgic again, played the Beatles and John Lennon most of the night.
Saturday 15th July
“Lazin’ on a sunny afternoon…..”, well it’s the evening actually, but I’ve put The Kinks on, and that’s just how was to-day.
Got my hair cut for the first time since getting here. My barber, Thande, is a 40 year-old Zimbabwean, who is getting married again next month to a Motswana. He says he is now ready after eight years since his first wife died. He reveals that he is a little nervous though. Very genial, he is from Bulawayo. He has a house there, with a maid, and any time I would like to visit, I could stay at his house! He would even arrange a golf introduction for me with one of his friends - a member at a local club! He whispers quietly that Batswana are not a polite people – unlike the Zimbabweans!
Got petrol. P200 nearly fills the tank! Good to have the car. Drove around to parts of F’town I hadn’t been to before. Drove out to the college to see what progress there has been since my last visit a month ago. It must be all inside, there didn’t appear to be much outside!
Met up with Klavs and his son Sorien. We plan to go fishing on Monday, and they need to buy some gear. Neither of them have fished before. After that, back to Klavs house for lunch. Nice house. It was built by the Danish builder he rents it from. You can tell it wasn’t a local builder, good finish all round, and the first house I’ve seen with wooden windows. It’s a little bigger than our house, but the he pays a third more for it. Well established garden, complete with banana and lemon trees.
The days are relentlessly blue skies and warm sunshine. Sat on the veranda in the late afternoon, reading. Someone was having a barbecue – the smell made me hungry. A barbecue - in the middle of winter! I’ll have to try to get ours going when June arrives. Keep thinking about that now.
Sunday 16th July
Played in the monthly medal this morning, and if it wasn’t for a 10 at one hole, it would have been a respectable round. Still can’t putt, but my pitching around the browns is much improved. Local rules allow you to use a tee on the fairway, so, even if you are just a few feet from the brown, you can tee the ball. Only about 16 played, and I just missed out on the longest drive prize. Always next week.
Sad news, we won’t be able to fish tomorrow, you need a permit and it can only be got at the main water utilities office, which will be shut for the holidays. We could risk fishing without the permit, but my fellow golfing/fishing buddies said that they would confiscate our equipment if caught. But, we decide to go out to the dam anyway sightseeing.
Another quite afternoon on the veranda with a bottle of SA white wine. So far, the white wines are much better than the 2/3 reds I’ve tried. Watched Harry Potter and the Prisoner of A. I had bought some frozen tiger prawns and had them for my tea, just fried in garlic and olive oil. OK, but you could tell they were frozen. But at P40 for a huge plateful, I couldn’t complain.
Monday 17th July
Set out at 8.00AM for Shashe Dam, along the A1 main road to Gabs. It’s about 30K, and we travel in convoy. Klavs also has a Honda CRV. The last 3/4K is off-road, and I get to use my Honda for what it was designed for, but the best was yet to come! We got to the dam and spent some time walking along the bank, bird spotting. Saw my first African pelican. We got to see some weaver bird nests close-up (sorry, forgot my camera!). There are different varieties, and one way of telling them apart is the design of their nests. I suggested to Klavs that we try a different way home. The map I had showed a road on the western side going north. The legend on the map was ‘seek local advice before using’, but I reasoned that would be in the rainy season. We were up for it.
Back to the main road and then into Shashe village itself, until the tar road ran out and we were travelling north along a wide gravel road. No signposts anywhere, but I was navigating by the sun and we were heading north. There were several forks in the road, but mostly obvious which one we should take, others – it was just guesswork and keeping the sun on my right. I had absolutely great fun! The road was good in places and quite poor in others, with deep rutting, bumps and boulders to negotiate, and the odd herd of cattle, goats, stray donkeys and locals in their donkey carts. We had to cross several dry (sandy) river beds, negotiating down steep river banks and up the other side. We passed several ‘cattle stations’ – no electricity here. It took over an hour to get back to tar road again, but I’m so glad I’ve bought a 4x4, it’ll be great using it in self-drive game parks and for travelling across the Kalahari and Makgadikgadi Pans. I felt just a little pleased with myself.
Back in F’town, we go to ‘The Marang’ for lunch, my first time there. The Marang is the local equivalent of Balbirnie House. Traditional thatched guest lodges and main restaurant, on the banks of the Tati river. I’ll take June here, even although the food did not match Balbirnie standards.
Another late sunny afternoon on the veranada.